tips for metal:
Use channel locks (wide mouth pliers) to open lid.
It will penetrate multiple layers, if you keep it wet with stripper.
Hold sprayer only 1 inch from the surface being sprayed.
Removes most paints and primers at one time. If your primer is stubborn,
you may save time by removing the paint first. Attack the primer alone,
spray and wait 40 minutes and clean off using a Chore Boy pad.
Strip in sections: door, corner panel, trunk etc…
Acrylic enamel starts working almost instantly and strips easily; baked
enamel takes a little longer.
Enamels bubble up, while lacquers liquefy. Sometimes, the primer needs to
be removed with a Scotch Brite pad.
Plastic fillers will be softened by the stripper and should be replaced,
as should glazing putty’s.
Most automotive paints will strip in 10-30 minutes. However, some paints
can be difficult. If you don’t see results in 30 minutes, you can spray
the piece in the AM and not even look at it until afternoon. This
process works on metal only, NEVER on fiberglass. Respray the next day
to reactive the stripper.
It generally takes 1 ½ -3 gallons to strip a medium sized car.
Mask off all plastic and rubber with masking tape and heavy paper.
Won’t harm chrome.
It works best when the METAL temperature is between 65º- 80ºF.
How not to overwork yourself when stripping a common metal surface
such as lawn furniture, bicycles, lawn mowers, railings, etc.
Example: An ornate lawn chair can be difficult to strip because
of the scroll structure. It will most likely have a large build up of
paint to be removed. (These paints can be any type found around the
house…latex, enamel, etc.
Lay down cardboard and set the
item to be stripped on the cardboard. If possible, do your stripping on
a patio or in a garage with the door open. Make sure your cardboard
covers enough area to insure you keep the removed paint off the
First testing a small area with a heavy coat of stripper
to see what paint is on the piece and how it’s going to strip. (If it is
latex, it probably will not bubble up, but liquefy instead)
Wet the item down with a good,
heavy coat, of remover.
Do only sections at a time,
starting at the top.
Go away for 10-30 minutes and
get involved in something else.
After 10-30 minutes, check on
the item. Use a brush or putty knife to see how the stripping is
proceeding. If it is not down to bare metal at this time, recoat and
let it set for another 30 minutes. (Remember you have spent very
little time on this item.)
On ornate items, you have to
use a small wire brush to loosen trapped paint in the ornate work.
A way to save time and work,
if the item seems like it’s taking a long while to strip, is to coat
the entire item with a good, heavy coat of remover and let it sit
overnight. The next day, re-spray it and you will find it stripping
much faster. (When it is left overnight with the remover on it, the
paint becomes brittle. When you re-spray with another coat of
remover, the brittle paint begins popping off.)
CAUTION: The above overnight
technique is for METAL ONLY!
Do NOT do this with fiberglass or wood!
Tips on: AUTO
PAINTS AND PRIMERS
Cars: Almost always have lacquer unless it’s been repainted.
GM FACTORY PRIMERS: Black, cream and grey can be a little tough
to remove. We highly recommend the following test to save time and work.
After all paint is stripped completely off, wet down the primer with
remover and let it sit at least 40 minutes. Re-spray at this time and go
do something else for an hour. If primer is not loose at this check
point, do NOT bother it.
If it starts to dry simply re-spray. DON’T RUSH IT, as it will remove
the primer for you while you go do something else.
To save even more time and remover, refer below to AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS:
FOREIGN CARS: Most are now using acrylic enamel or baked enamel.
Acrylic starts working almost immediately and strips easily. Baked
enamel takes a little longer.
LACQUER PAINTS: These will strip easy, but will not bubble up in
most cases. These types of paint liquefy, turn dark and tend to be kind
of gummy. Simply follow directions on the can.
PRIMERS: When primers tend to lay there as if nothing’s
happening, use a Scotch Brite™ pad after primer has been wet with
stripper. You will find they can easily be removed this way. (Above all,
DO NOT RUSH the job, and keep the surface wet with stripper)
BODY FILLERS: Plastic fillers – such as - Bondo™ will be softened
by the stripper and should be replaced. Glazing putty’s are also
affected and should be replaced. (Check them closely.) Black Magic,
Kitty Hair, Green Stuff and any other type of non-metal filler should be
AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS: Most automotive paints will strip in 10-30
minutes. However, some paints can be difficult. Follow the directions on
the can label. If you don’t get results in 10-30 minutes, you have one
of the hard-to-strip projects and may want to utilize the following
If the above happens, DON’T PANIC! It CAN be stripped! Take a section at
a time, beginning with the hood. In the A.M., spray on a heavy coat and
don’t even look at it again until late afternoon. When you come back,
spray on another heavy coat and wait about five minutes. If no lifting
or liquefying starts to happen, don’t worry. Just leave it sit until the
next day. In the morning, re-spray the section and behold what happens!
Before your very eyes, the paint will begin wrinkling and curling up
like a can of worms!
(Look what little time you have involved!)
Another technique for hard-to-strip automotive paints is to take a piece
of coarse sandpaper and LIGHTLY roughen the surface before applying
remover. This lets the remover get to the bottom faster. (DO NOT use
force with the sandpaper as this will scratch the metal.)
Always sand and prime bare metal before painting!
Strip tips for
We DO NOT recommend the use of Lightning Strip Metal on any fiberglass
other than factory automotive or factory boat fiberglass. It is safe to
use on factory fiberglass if you follow these simple techniques.
NEVER leave overnight!
As soon as the paint is loosened, remove it and clean the surface with
Always tape all glue joints with TWO layers of masking tape to keep
remover out of imperfect glue joints.
Fiberglass boats sometimes have the color in the gel coat. There must be
paint on top of the gel coat for the stripper to remove it.
Always wash thoroughly with water.
DO NOT USE on fiberglass-repaired areas or un-gel-coated fiberglass.
Some cars such as pre-70 Corvettes have only thin gel coats or resins over
the fiberglass mat. We DO NOT guarantee the stripper will not damage
this type of fiberglass although may have stripped it a section at a
time and have not suffered any damage. This is totally at the
Products Mfg., Ltd.
3480 State Route 15
Ney, OH 43549
1-800-659-2459 Fax: 419-658-2334